New Homeowner Checklist: 30 Things to Do in Your First 30 Days

Quick answer: your first month as a homeowner should be less about remodeling and more about learning how the house works. Before you worry about paint colors or furniture, find the emergency shutoffs, verify the safety equipment, document the major systems and appliances, look for active water problems, and turn the inspection report into a realistic maintenance plan.

This checklist gives you 30 useful things to do during your first 30 days. You do not need to finish one item per calendar day. Group them into a few walkthroughs and spread the work across the month.

The goal by day 30 is simple: if something leaks, trips, alarms, stops heating, or needs service, you should know where to look, what information you have, and who to call.

First 30 days at a glance

Days 1–3: learn the things you may need in an emergency

1. Change or take control of exterior access

You do not know how many keys, garage remotes, keypad codes, or smart-lock credentials may still exist from previous occupants, contractors, cleaners, relatives, or neighbors.

During the first few days:

• Rekey or replace exterior-door locks as appropriate.
• Change garage-door keypad codes.
• Remove old garage remotes from the opener's memory if the manufacturer allows it.
• Change smart-lock owners, PINs, and connected accounts.
• Check gates, sheds, and detached structures.

If the property has a building access system, HOA access, alarm system, or professionally monitored security equipment, transfer ownership through the provider rather than trying to bypass the existing controls.

2. Find the main water shutoff

Do this before you need it.

The main water shutoff normally stops most of the pressurized domestic water entering the house. It is commonly near the water meter or where the service line enters the building, although locations vary by climate and construction.

When you find it:

• Photograph the valve.
• Take a second photo showing where it is in the room.
• Label it clearly.
• Keep boxes and storage away from it.
• Make sure another responsible household member knows where it is.

If the valve is corroded, leaking, partly buried, damaged, or difficult to operate, do not force it. Have a plumber inspect it.

Our guide What Is the Main Water Shutoff? explains common locations and valve types in more detail.

3. Find the individual fixture shutoffs

A leaking toilet or sink does not always require shutting off water to the entire house.

Look for accessible shutoffs:

• Behind each toilet.
• Under sinks.
• At the washing machine.
• At other fixtures and appliances where visible shutoffs are provided.

Do not twist every old valve just to see what happens. The first goal is identification. If an old fixture valve is badly corroded or appears unreliable, add it to the plumber list.

4. Find the electrical panel and main disconnect

You should know where the electrical panel is without searching during an outage or emergency.

From the outside only:

• Read the panel label.
• Photograph the breaker directory.
• Note whether the directory is readable and specific.
• Identify the main disconnect if it is clearly labeled.
• Keep the area in front of the panel accessible.

Do not remove the panel cover. If the panel is hot, buzzing, sparking, visibly damaged, wet, or smells burned, stay away and contact a licensed electrician.

5. Learn how your gas service is handled

If the home uses natural gas or propane, find the utility or supplier's emergency number and save it in your phone.

Identify the gas meter or propane tank from a normal safe location, but do not practice shutting off an unfamiliar gas valve. Gas utilities and systems have specific emergency and restart procedures, and gas service should not be casually turned back on after a shutdown.

If you ever smell gas or suspect a leak, leave the area and follow the utility's emergency instructions from a safe location.

6. Test every smoke alarm and check its age

Press the built-in TEST button on every smoke alarm according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Also check the date label. The U.S. Fire Administration recommends monthly testing and replacement of smoke alarms generally every 10 years, subject to the manufacturer's instructions.

Record:

• Alarm location.
• Smoke-only or combination smoke/CO.
• Manufacture date.
• Battery type.
• Replacement deadline.

If an alarm is missing, damaged, expired, or fails its test, address it promptly rather than waiting for a chirp.

7. Locate and test the carbon-monoxide alarms

Carbon-monoxide alarms are separate life-safety devices even when they share a housing with a smoke alarm.

CPSC recommends CO alarms on every level of the home and outside sleeping areas, installed and maintained according to manufacturer instructions.

For each alarm:

• Use the manufacturer's TEST procedure.
• Record the manufacture or replacement date.
• Confirm whether it has battery backup.
• Read what its alert and end-of-life sounds mean.

If a CO alarm sounds unexpectedly, do not treat it like a low-battery chirp unless you are certain that is what the alarm is indicating. Follow the alarm and emergency instructions.

8. Locate fire extinguishers and plan how you would exit

If the home already has fire extinguishers, identify their locations and read the labels. Check whether they show obvious damage, corrosion, missing pins/seals, or other conditions the manufacturer says require service or replacement.

More important than owning an extinguisher is knowing when to leave. Walk through:

• Primary exits.
• Bedroom escape paths.
• Exterior doors that are difficult to unlock.
• Windows that are intended to provide emergency egress.

Do not create storage that blocks an exit or hides safety equipment.

9. Find the sump pump, floor drains, and other water-management equipment

If the inspection report mentions a sump pump, locate it now.

Record:

• Where the sump pit is.
• Where the discharge appears to go.
• Whether backup equipment is present.
• The pump brand/model if visible.
• Any service history left by the seller.

Also note basement or utility-room floor drains. Do not remove sealed covers or reach into pits you do not understand.

If the sump pump protects a basement that would be expensive to flood, learning its maintenance and backup arrangement belongs near the top of your first-year plan.

10. Check the garage-door opener safety system

If the home has an automatic garage-door opener, find the owner's manual or model number and follow the manufacturer-directed safety-reversal test.

CPSC has long recommended testing automatic reversal regularly and having an opener repaired when it does not reverse properly.

Also:

• Keep remote controls away from children.
• Make sure photo-eye sensors have not been bypassed or knocked out of position.
• Watch the full door travel when operating it.
• Do not walk or drive under a moving door.

If the door is unusually heavy, jerks, has damaged springs/cables, or fails a manufacturer safety test, use a qualified garage-door professional rather than adjusting high-tension hardware yourself.

Days 4–10: create a record of the house you actually bought

11. Read the home-inspection report again

The inspection report feels very different after you own the house.

Read it again and sort every meaningful observation into four groups:

Do not assume the inspector's estimated age or remaining life of equipment is exact. Use model numbers, installation records, permits, and professional evaluation to refine the information.

12. Save your homeowners-insurance information where you can actually find it

Record the insurer, policy number, claim phone number, agent or service contact, deductible information, and the location of the full policy.

Read enough of the policy to understand that coverage has limits, exclusions, deductibles, and special conditions. If you are unsure whether flood, sewer backup, jewelry, business equipment, or another exposure is covered, ask the insurer rather than assuming.

Keep a secure digital copy of the policy somewhere you can access even if you cannot enter the house.

13. Create one home-document folder

Do not scatter house records across email, kitchen drawers, cloud drives, and moving boxes.

Create one organized location for:

• Closing documents.
• Inspection report.
• Survey.
• Insurance.
• Warranties.
• Permits and certificates left with the property.
• Contractor invoices.
• Appliance manuals.
• Repair receipts.
• Paint and finish information.

Ready.gov recommends keeping important documents secure and maintaining digital copies where appropriate for disaster preparedness.

Do not keep the only copy of an irreplaceable document in the home.

14. Photograph every room and the major exterior areas

Before months of decorating and replacing things, create a simple visual baseline.

Photograph:

• Each room from several angles.
• Major furniture and valuable items.
• Basement, attic-access area, garage, and utility spaces.
• Exterior sides of the house.
• Roof from the ground where visible.
• Decks, sheds, fences, driveway, and major landscaping.

These photos can help you notice whether a crack, stain, leak, or exterior defect is changing over time. They can also support a home inventory.

15. Record every major appliance model and serial number

Do this while the appliances still work.

Photograph the full model-and-serial label for:

• Refrigerator.
• Dishwasher.
• Range/oven.
• Microwave.
• Washer.
• Dryer.
• Other major built-in appliances.

Save the official manual links and warranty information.

The model number is what helps you find the correct manual, filter, replacement part, maintenance procedure, and recall information later. Our guide Where Do I Find My Appliance Model Number? shows the common label locations.

16. Identify what kind of HVAC system you have

Do not wait for a no-heat or no-cooling call to learn whether you have a furnace, boiler, heat pump, central air conditioner, mini-split, or combination system.

From normal-access areas, record:

• Indoor equipment type.
• Outdoor equipment type.
• Brand, model, and serial numbers.
• Thermostat model.
• Fuel type if clearly documented.
• Installation date if known.
• Last service date.

Do not remove HVAC service panels just to identify equipment.

See What Is an HVAC System? if you are not sure what you are looking at.

17. Find the HVAC filter and check it

Locate every filter used by the system and record:

• Filter dimensions.
• Thickness.
• Location.
• Airflow-arrow direction.
• Current filter rating.

ENERGY STAR recommends checking HVAC filters monthly and changing dirty filters; its general guidance says at least every three months, although the correct interval depends on the filter and system.

If you do not know whether the filter is homeowner-serviceable or which replacement is compatible, use the equipment manual or ask the HVAC contractor.

18. Record your water heater before it becomes an emergency

Photograph the water heater's accessible rating label and record:

• Brand.
• Model number.
• Serial number.
• Fuel/energy type if clearly documented.
• Tank or tankless design.
• Installation date if known.
• Warranty information.

Visually check the surrounding floor and visible connections for water, corrosion, or staining without removing covers or operating safety valves you do not understand.

If there is active leakage, significant corrosion, or evidence of combustion trouble, arrange professional evaluation.

19. Find out whether you have public sewer or a septic system

This is basic ownership information you should know before a drain problem occurs.

If the property uses public sewer, determine whether the inspection or seller records identify an accessible sewer cleanout.

If the home uses septic, collect:

• Tank/system location records.
• Last pumping/service date.
• Inspection reports.
• Permit or design information if available.
• Service-company information.

Do not open a septic tank or enter any tank, pit, or confined space. Septic access and service are professional work.

20. Locate outdoor water controls and irrigation information

Identify outdoor hose bibbs and, if applicable, irrigation controls.

Record:

• Where irrigation shutoffs/controllers are located.
• Controller brand and model.
• Any winterization records.
• Whether the system has known leaks or broken heads.

In freezing climates, outdoor-water winterization may be important. In warm climates, irrigation may be a major source of household water use. The correct seasonal procedure depends on the system and region.

Days 11–20: establish a maintenance and moisture baseline

21. Look for plumbing leaks in all the easy places

Use a flashlight and inspect normal-access areas:

• Under kitchen and bathroom sinks.
• Around toilet bases and supply valves.
• Near the washing machine.
• Near the dishwasher where visible.
• Around the refrigerator water connection where accessible.
• Around the water heater.
• At exposed basement/crawl-space plumbing that can be viewed safely.

Look for active droplets, mineral deposits, rust, warped cabinet floors, damp drywall, staining, or musty odors.

If you find hidden, recurring, pressurized, or significant leakage, see When Does a Plumbing Leak Need a Plumber?.

22. Run a simple water-meter leak check

EPA WaterSense recommends using the water meter as one way to detect hidden water use.

1. Make sure faucets, toilets, appliances, irrigation, water softeners, and other intentional water users are not operating.
2. Read the meter.
3. Avoid intentional water use for about two hours.
4. Read the meter again.

If the reading changed, EPA says you probably have a leak.

This test does not identify the leak. Check obvious toilets, faucets, and visible connections first, then use a plumber if the source cannot be found.

23. Check the dryer exhaust system

Find where the clothes dryer exhausts outdoors.

Verify that:

• The dryer has a lint filter.
• The exterior termination is visible and not obviously blocked.
• The exhaust path is not intentionally vented into the attic, crawl space, or living space.
• There is no obvious crushed or disconnected duct in accessible areas.

CPSC recommends cleaning lint from the vent pipe at least annually and making sure the outdoor vent flap opens when the dryer operates.

If you do not know when the exhaust was last cleaned—or drying takes unusually long—put inspection/cleaning on the near-term list.

24. Look at the gutters and downspouts from the ground

You do not need to climb onto the roof.

Walk the perimeter and look for:

• Loose or hanging gutter sections.
• Missing downspouts.
• Obvious vegetation or debris.
• Staining that suggests overflow.
• Downspouts dumping water directly beside the foundation.
• Erosion below discharge points.

EPA moisture guidance emphasizes directing roof and surface water away from the building. If gutters are high, difficult to reach, near electrical service, or require roof access, use a professional.

25. Walk around the foundation after a real rain

A dry sunny-day inspection cannot show you everything about drainage.

After ordinary rainfall, safely walk around the property and look for:

• Water pooling against the foundation.
• Downspout discharge flowing back toward the house.
• Erosion channels.
• Water entering window wells.
• Basement or crawl-space moisture appearing after rain.

EPA moisture guidance recommends managing rainwater and snowmelt so that drainage moves water away from the structure.

Do not immediately dig trenches or reroute buried drainage based on one observation. Photograph the problem and get appropriate drainage, landscaping, foundation, or plumbing advice when the cause is unclear.

26. Locate the GFCI protection and perform the normal test

Look for receptacles with TEST and RESET buttons in areas such as bathrooms, kitchens, garages, basements, laundry areas, and outdoors.

Remember that one GFCI device can protect ordinary-looking outlets downstream, and GFCI protection can also be provided at the breaker panel.

Follow each manufacturer's TEST/RESET instructions in dry, safe conditions. Do not remove cover plates.

If a GFCI fails its test, repeatedly trips, is hot, damaged, discolored, buzzing, or will not reset, use a qualified electrician.

Our guide What Is a GFCI Outlet? explains how downstream protection works.

27. Do a no-tools electrical warning-sign walkthrough

You can learn a lot without touching wiring.

Look for:

• Broken outlet or switch covers.
• Loose receptacles.
• Plugs that fall out easily.
• Brown or melted electrical devices.
• Extension cords being used as permanent wiring.
• Cords under rugs or pinched by furniture.
• Repeatedly tripped breakers.
• Flickering that is not explained by a bulb.
• Buzzing, crackling, or burning odors.

CPSC's home electrical-safety guidance treats overheating, damaged cords, and other abnormal conditions as reasons for corrective action.

Do not open receptacles or the electrical panel to investigate. If you find warning signs, photograph them from a safe position and call an electrician.

Days 21–30: turn what you learned into a first-year plan

28. Learn the hazards that are specific to where you live

Home maintenance changes with location.

Depending on the region, your first-year plan may need to account for:

• Freezing pipes.
• Hurricanes.
• Flooding.
• Wildfire.
• Extreme heat.
• Heavy snow.
• Tornadoes.
• Earthquakes.
• Severe thunderstorms.

Ready.gov recommends learning the emergencies common in your area, signing up for local alerts, creating an emergency plan, and learning how utility shutoffs are handled where you live.

Save local utility outage/emergency numbers and enable the official emergency-alert sources appropriate for your location.

29. Schedule the professional work the inspection report actually supports

Do not schedule every possible contractor simply because you are a new homeowner.

Use your inspection report, seller records, equipment manuals, and what you observed during the first month to decide what genuinely needs professional attention.

Possible examples:

• HVAC service when the maintenance history is unknown or due.
• Chimney/fireplace inspection where applicable.
• Plumbing repair for leaking or unreliable shutoffs.
• Electrical evaluation for safety warning signs.
• Garage-door service for failed safety tests.
• Roof/gutter service where safe ground observation reveals problems.
• Septic service based on documented system needs.

ENERGY STAR recommends annual pre-season HVAC checkups, but the timing and scope of other professional services depend on the actual system and manufacturer guidance.

Ask each professional to explain what they found and save the invoice/report in your home file.

30. Build your first-year maintenance calendar

The final step is to turn one month of observations into recurring maintenance.

Create reminders for tasks that actually apply to your home, such as:

• Monthly smoke/CO alarm tests.
• Monthly HVAC filter checks.
• Seasonal HVAC service where appropriate.
• Gutter inspections/cleaning based on tree cover and local seasons.
• Annual dryer-vent cleaning or inspection based on the appliance guidance and use.
• Garage-door safety testing according to the opener manual.
• Water-leak checks.
• Irrigation startup/winterization.
• Sump-pump maintenance.
• Manufacturer-specific appliance maintenance.

Do not copy a generic online maintenance schedule blindly. Your home may not have a chimney, septic system, sump pump, irrigation, central air, gutters, or other equipment found on somebody else's checklist.

The right maintenance calendar comes from your equipment, your climate, your inspection report, and the manufacturer instructions.

What you do not need to do in the first 30 days

New ownership can make every imperfection feel urgent. It is not.

You usually do not need to:

• Replace every old appliance because of age alone.
• Buy every tool before you have a job for it.
• Climb onto the roof to “inspect” it yourself.
• Open HVAC, electrical, gas, or plumbing equipment you do not understand.
• Replace every outlet in an older home without an electrical reason.
• Renovate cosmetic rooms before addressing active water or safety problems.
• Follow every maintenance interval you find online if the equipment manual says something different.

The first month is an orientation period. Your best investment is knowing the house well enough to make better decisions later.

A practical first-month priority system

When your list grows longer than expected, use this order:

1. Life safety: fire, carbon monoxide, gas, dangerous electrical conditions, structural instability.
2. Active water: plumbing leaks, roof/drainage water, sewage, failing shutoffs.
3. Damage prevention: drainage, HVAC problems, failing equipment, moisture.
4. Routine maintenance: filters, cleaning, servicing, lubrication where the manufacturer specifies it.
5. Efficiency and comfort: drafts, insulation, temperature imbalance.
6. Cosmetic projects: paint, finishes, upgrades based mainly on preference.

This order prevents a new kitchen backsplash from getting more attention than the wet cabinet under the sink.

Frequently asked questions

What should I do first after buying a house?

Take control of access, find the main water shutoff and electrical panel, verify smoke and CO alarms, and read the inspection report again. Those actions prepare you for problems that can cause injury or expensive damage.

Should I change the locks immediately?

It is a sensible early security step because you may not know how many old keys or codes exist. Also reset garage-door codes, smart-lock credentials, and other access systems where applicable.

Do I need to replace the HVAC filter when I move in?

Inspect it first and replace it if dirty or if its condition/history is unknown and the replacement is compatible with the system. Record the correct size and location so future replacements are straightforward.

Should I have the HVAC serviced right after moving in?

Not automatically. Review the seller's service records, inspection findings, equipment condition, and manufacturer schedule. ENERGY STAR recommends annual pre-season checkups, so schedule one if the system is due or its history is unknown.

Should I hire a plumber just to show me the shutoffs?

If you cannot confidently identify the main shutoff, it is damaged, or you have an older/unfamiliar plumbing system, asking a plumber to identify and evaluate it during a service visit is worthwhile.

What should I replace immediately in a new house?

Replace or repair things because of condition, safety, failed tests, expiration, or known defects—not simply because they are old. Failed smoke/CO alarms, dangerous electrical devices, active leaks, and unreliable emergency controls deserve much higher priority than cosmetic aging.

What home documents should I save?

Start with the closing documents, inspection report, survey, insurance, warranties, permits, invoices, manuals, equipment records, and receipts for future repairs or improvements. Our separate guide on what house documents to keep will cover retention in detail.

What if the inspection report has 50 problems?

Do not treat every line as equally urgent. Separate safety and active-damage issues from repairs, maintenance, monitoring, and cosmetic items. Use specialists when the inspector recommended further evaluation.

How much should I spend on maintenance in the first month?

There is no reliable universal percentage or dollar amount for every house. A newer condo and an older detached home with aging systems can have completely different needs. Spend first on safety, active damage, and known deferred maintenance rather than trying to hit a generic budget rule.

Do I need to buy a lot of tools right away?

No. Buy tools as real tasks appear. A flashlight, basic hand tools, measuring tape, and a few ordinary household items may cover your early walkthrough. Specialized tools are not a substitute for professional skill on electrical, gas, roof, structural, or other high-risk work.

Your day-30 finish line

By the end of your first month, you should be able to answer:

• Where is the main water shutoff?
• Where is the electrical panel?
• Who do I call for utility emergencies?
• Are the smoke and CO alarms working and within their service life?
• What type of HVAC system do I have?
• Where is the HVAC filter and what size is it?
• What are the model numbers of the major appliances?
• Does the house show any active plumbing or drainage problems?
• Which inspection findings are actually urgent?
• What maintenance is due during the next 12 months?

If you can answer those questions, your first month was productive even if you have not renovated a single room.

Good homeownership begins with knowing the house before trying to improve it.